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The only problem is that in all the commotion I lost the center of my steering wheel so now it's about a third of a turn off center. Hopefully an the alignment will fix that.

I finally got it! Thanks for the ideas. I hammered a screw driver into the little crack then continued using that screw driver as leverage to hammer the spline in. It took hours and half a can of WD-40 but it's in there now.

This is what mine looks like, I don't see anyway it can have a master spline. I managed to force a screw driver in the gap, but it doesn't seem to have made it any easier.

I couldn't see anything on the rack that looks like a master spline. Could you bash it in under the car? It keeps moving which makes it difficult.

Ok, so I ended up deciding to replace the rack myself. I ordered a re-built one online and took the old one out. It was pretty easy to get out, although it was a huge pain to separate the rack from the steering column. Now when trying to put the new one in I can't get the spline on the rack...

Ha, I wish. I don't have a work bench so it seems like an impossible task.

Update. I jacked up the front wheels turned the key to the on position (engine not started though) and turned the steering wheel. When I turn from full left to full right (the right rod is the one I have removed) about 30mL of liquid shoots out. That seems too bad to me to just ignore and seems...

What stop leak did you use? I've heard that can damage the pumps which I'm worried about. It sounds like I'll have to lift up the front and turn the wheel to see how bad it really is.

I thought it was unlikely to be from anything else. Will it only leak with the car running and the steering changing? Yeah, I wasn't planning on changing the seals. I will probably take it to a shop for this, I need a car break

The other day I noticed that the ball joints on the tie rods were cracked on my 1996 Z3, so I decided to replace them. After I took the first metal ring holding the boot on the tie rod off fluid gushed out everywhere. To me the fluid looks like used ATF fluid. I have now drained all of the...

I have Pilot Sport 4S and they are really grippy!

If you push in on the door does that help open it? I had the same problem and it looks like the latch on the door has just been worn down. Instead of spending a fortune on a new latch I just put some tape on it to increase the thickness. Now I don't have a problem. I'm still trying to find...

Ok, the one inside the car only connects to the engine, so I thought that might be your problem. The one under the bonnet should work though.

Did you plug the code reader into the connector under the bonnet or the one near the passenger inside the car?

I just checked mine, got the FEI part. Same as Tony's it just looks like the BMW one just with the logo scratched off.

I forgot to say, only take the top half of the intake manifold off. The bottom half looks like way more work and isn't required.

I had this exact problem recently. The car wouldn't start unless I help down the accelerator and then it wouldn't keep idle revs. Sounded awful. My code reader told me error code P0335 which is the Crankshaft position sensor (not camshaft). From memory I got a replacement OEM part for around...

Thanks for your advice. I decided I won't change the calipers then. I'm just going to measure the thicknesses of the pads and rotors and go from there. Hopefully I can avoid changing anything for now :)

I didn't replace the clutch hose in this case, now I'm kind of thinking I should have. It does seem hard to undo it from the master cylinder though. I remember looking at the hose and it looked fine. It does feel noticeably better now. Even in California where it's fairly dry it seems like the...

Digging into it a bit more it sounds like I might replace them. There is a discussion here [5] where some people think they should be replaced and some think they shouldn't as there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with them. Either way thought it sounds like the brake fluid should be bled...