Write Up Northern Rolling Road April 18

I'm going to remove the Simota air filter and put the standard one back on soon as mine was down by 2hp, which is minimal I know.
Then at some point I'll get another dyno test just to see if it makes any difference.
So if anyone else was thinking of taking theirs back, you can come and hold my hand.
@Grumps do you have the standard air box on yours mate ? Just wondered as yours gained about 5hp.
 
Don't know if he still has it on Steve, but we fitted the induction filter from my old Z3 on Reggie?

Tony.
 
Don't know if he still has it on Steve, but we fitted the induction filter from my old Z3 on Reggie?

Tony.
I think it was @Pingu that was saying on Saturday that a lot of "performance" air filters are more restrictive than the
standard o.e.m ones.
 
I think it was @Pingu that was saying on Saturday that a lot of "performance" air filters are more restrictive than the
standard o.e.m ones.

Seen that on some YouTube videos too mate. I'm quite happy to shed a couple of horses to get the noise I get from mine though.

Tony.
 
Seen that on some YouTube videos too mate. I'm quite happy to shed a couple of horses to get the noise I get from mine though.

Tony.
Yours does sound very good mate :thumbsup:.
I don't get the same sound at all from mine :rolleyes:, so thinking if I sell it on it'll pay for something else like decent brake pads and braided brake lines, which I will feel the benefit of ;).
 
...So if anyone else was thinking of taking theirs back, you can come and hold my hand...
Me, me, me. I'll let them give the 2.2 a run:rolleyes:
 
Yours does sound very good mate :thumbsup:.
I don't get the same sound at all from mine :rolleyes:, so thinking if I sell it on it'll pay for something else like decent brake pads and braided brake lines, which I will feel the benefit of ;).

For what you'll get for a Simota mate you could get a Ramair and hoses, and some towards pads.

Tony.
 
For what you'll get for a Simota mate you could get a Ramair and hoses, and some towards pads.

Tony.
New rear tyres are top of the list at the mo Tony, these ones have only done 11k miles and they need replacing :rolleyes:.
 
Know that feeling mate, I need a set for my 108s and then later in the year a set of winter tyres for my Turbines.

Tony.
 
Ouch, expensive times for you then mate :rolleyes:.

True, but if I behave ;), those sets should last me a couple of years, maybe more on the winters.

tony.
 
True, but if I behave ;), those sets should last me a couple of years, maybe more on the winters.

tony.
That's true, two sets of wheels and tyres = half the mileage I guess.
 
Thanks for arranging Paul, was fun seeing the cars maxing out. Mine was as down on power compared to last check so a bit disappointing for me. Dyno in Leeds showed 532hp. It had no cats on then but seems unlikely this would account for 60hp difference. Still sounds great though

View: https://youtu.be/6EN3vVaHnbo
Superb noise, loved chasing this round the top of Scotland
 
I think it was @Pingu that was saying on Saturday that a lot of "performance" air filters are more restrictive than the standard o.e.m ones.

I did some tests with a manometer and an airbox with MAF. The number is the pressure difference in cm of water. Here are the results (the lower the number, the better)...

No air filter... 3.5
No air filter and no mesh in MAF... 3.0
Dirty air filter (16000 miles)... 4.5
Clean side of dirty air filter... 4.2
New OEM air filter... 4.2
Unoiled Simota air filter... 4.0
Oiled Simota air filter... 10.5
 
I am no fan of "bolt on" performance parts in general. All cars are manufactured as design compromises, mostly between cost, performance, economy and usability/comfort. Much is invested by the manufacturer to get this right for the "standard customer", whoever he or she is. You may improve one aspect whilst degrading another with "enhancements" which is fine as long as the likely outcome is considered and acceptable. The aftermarket air filter is a good example: you pays money for it (the aftermarket supplier is happy), likely the noise increases (some may like this, some may not) and quite possibly performance/economy decreases (likely not enough to notice and the placebo effect might kick in). There is real possibility that the design is compromised and the real time and long term reliability thereby impacted.
I can fully understand engine tuning for a track/race car where performance and safety are paramount but for road cars I would urge caution.
That said, I am considering lowering springs and new shocks for the Z3 (and replacing all suspension bushes with OEM). Possibly also H&R stiffer antiroll bars. I know that this will cost circa £1K, I will get a firmer ride (less comfort), the car will look better (I hope) and allow the car to out handle bigger engined cars on track:whistle:
Just some thoughts!:)
 
I'm going to remove the Simota air filter and put the standard one back on soon as mine was down by 2hp, which is minimal I know.
Then at some point I'll get another dyno test just to see if it makes any difference.
So if anyone else was thinking of taking theirs back, you can come and hold my hand.
@Grumps do you have the standard air box on yours mate ? Just wondered as yours gained about 5hp.
No mate, k&N cone filter and the cat back stainless.
 
I did some tests with a manometer and an airbox with MAF. The number is the pressure difference in cm of water. Here are the results (the lower the number, the better)...

No air filter... 3.5
No air filter and no mesh in MAF... 3.0
Dirty air filter (16000 miles)... 4.5
Clean side of dirty air filter... 4.2
New OEM air filter... 4.2
Unoiled Simota air filter... 4.0
Oiled Simota air filter... 10.5
Was that a drop in filter or open cone filter?
 
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