No blower motor

John_B

Zorg Guru (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Jun 2, 2023
Points
116
Location
Derbyshire, UK
Afternoon all.

At some point over the winter my blower motor has stopped working (on all settings). Between it working and not, the car just sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected - Meaning to say that I wasn't poking around or changing anything.

I have checked the fuses and I swapped the relay with another of the same colour (presumed to work - since there are no other functions of the car inop). I think I am right in saying it is not the resistor, otherwise it would still work on the highest setting because the resistor is bypassed, right?

Before I buy a replacement motor, my plan is to open up the scuttle to access the motor and then use a multimeter to check that power is actually being delivered to it. This should tell me whether the problem is the motor itself or the power/signal. Does that sound a sensible plan of attack, or am I overlooking a flaw in my logic?

If it's relevant the AC & Recirc buttons still illuminate and I can hear stuff happening when I cycle them.

(In similar threads Tony suggested using a power probe to supply 12v directly to the motor - but I don't have a power probe. In another thread somebody else had forgotten to plug the HVAC control panel in - but I haven't had mine out since before it stopped working, so I don't think it can be that!).

Thanks in advance :)
 

Rudyrov

Zorg Guru (I)
American Zeds
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Jan 29, 2014
Points
95
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Model of Z
2.8 L Roadster
Your going to have to use a voltmeter or low current draw test light to see where the system has failed.
 

Pond

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Points
144
Location
Spaldingski, Lincs
Model of Z
3 litre Z3 pretending to be Italian exotica. Two previous E89 Z4s.
Afternoon all.

At some point over the winter my blower motor has stopped working (on all settings). Between it working and not, the car just sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected - Meaning to say that I wasn't poking around or changing anything.

I have checked the fuses and I swapped the relay with another of the same colour (presumed to work - since there are no other functions of the car inop). I think I am right in saying it is not the resistor, otherwise it would still work on the highest setting because the resistor is bypassed, right?

Before I buy a replacement motor, my plan is to open up the scuttle to access the motor and then use a multimeter to check that power is actually being delivered to it. This should tell me whether the problem is the motor itself or the power/signal. Does that sound a sensible plan of attack, or am I overlooking a flaw in my logic?

If it's relevant the AC & Recirc buttons still illuminate and I can hear stuff happening when I cycle them.

(In similar threads Tony suggested using a power probe to supply 12v directly to the motor - but I don't have a power probe. In another thread somebody else had forgotten to plug the HVAC control panel in - but I haven't had mine out since before it stopped working, so I don't think it can be that!).

Thanks in advance :)
It could just be a stiff/ slightly seized impellor shaft, as it's been sitting idle.
Get the scuttle off and have a look first. Try spinning the fan blade assembly by hand to make sure it's not stuck or seized.
If it spins freely but still won't run, then start looking for electrical issues. I would be looking for corrosion/ water ingress into the fan motor connector first.

Electrical parts don't just fail from lack of use, unless there is another reason. Usually moisture and/or corrosion.
 

John_B

Zorg Guru (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Jun 2, 2023
Points
116
Location
Derbyshire, UK
Well that was anticlimactic, got the cover off the blower and went to turn it on to check voltage and it was working!!

must have just been something needed a nudge.

happy days!! Thanks all for the suggestions
 
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