Afternoon all.
At some point over the winter my blower motor has stopped working (on all settings). Between it working and not, the car just sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected - Meaning to say that I wasn't poking around or changing anything.
I have checked the fuses and I swapped the relay with another of the same colour (presumed to work - since there are no other functions of the car inop). I think I am right in saying it is not the resistor, otherwise it would still work on the highest setting because the resistor is bypassed, right?
Before I buy a replacement motor, my plan is to open up the scuttle to access the motor and then use a multimeter to check that power is actually being delivered to it. This should tell me whether the problem is the motor itself or the power/signal. Does that sound a sensible plan of attack, or am I overlooking a flaw in my logic?
If it's relevant the AC & Recirc buttons still illuminate and I can hear stuff happening when I cycle them.
(In similar threads Tony suggested using a power probe to supply 12v directly to the motor - but I don't have a power probe. In another thread somebody else had forgotten to plug the HVAC control panel in - but I haven't had mine out since before it stopped working, so I don't think it can be that!).
Thanks in advance
At some point over the winter my blower motor has stopped working (on all settings). Between it working and not, the car just sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected - Meaning to say that I wasn't poking around or changing anything.
I have checked the fuses and I swapped the relay with another of the same colour (presumed to work - since there are no other functions of the car inop). I think I am right in saying it is not the resistor, otherwise it would still work on the highest setting because the resistor is bypassed, right?
Before I buy a replacement motor, my plan is to open up the scuttle to access the motor and then use a multimeter to check that power is actually being delivered to it. This should tell me whether the problem is the motor itself or the power/signal. Does that sound a sensible plan of attack, or am I overlooking a flaw in my logic?
If it's relevant the AC & Recirc buttons still illuminate and I can hear stuff happening when I cycle them.
(In similar threads Tony suggested using a power probe to supply 12v directly to the motor - but I don't have a power probe. In another thread somebody else had forgotten to plug the HVAC control panel in - but I haven't had mine out since before it stopped working, so I don't think it can be that!).
Thanks in advance