No acceleration when pedal pressed, any ideas?

[Zont]

So I took the 2.2 out for a drive a few days ago and it ran flawlessly. Went to start it this evening and it fired up for a split second then cut out. Tried again same thing. Third time lucky I thought, so pressed the accelerator and it came to life, perfect I thought, time to go for a drive... nope. I have no acceleration whatsoever regardless of how far I press the pedal. I checked the pedal bushes and they're all fine, spring etc still in place. It also idles fine.

As it's fly by wire will this be the throttle position sensor? Or is there another sensor on the pedal side of the circuit that may have gone? Thanks

 

[t-tony]

Any warning lights illuminated on the dash? Do you have a code reader to check for fault codes?

Tony.

 

[Zont]

Nope, no warning lights / Eml. I didn't have my scanner handy, but I'll scan it later to see if it shows any readings and report back.

 

[colb]

Code reader to see if its set any codes, either pedal or throttle body end gone bad would be my guess, code might pin it down.

 

[motco]

Mine was a sticking throttle body on my 2.2 when that happened.

 

[Ianmc]

The sensor on the pedal is a known weakness on the fly by wire cars. My indy suggested periodic replacement on my MC.

 

[Zont]

Thanks for the replies.
Thought I'd give a quick update; plugged my reader in and it showed the following: Fuel bank 1 + 2 permissible range exceeded. Signal, mass air flow sensor. Plausibility, signal, brake light switch/brake-light test switch. Fired the car up without clearing the codes to test the pedal sensors, both picked up the throttle movement but there were no revs. Turned the car off, cleared the codes, fired up again and everything was back to normal, checked for fault codes again but none came back. Very strange. . I'll pull the TB and give it a clean when I get a chance.

 

[colb]

High fuel trims like that are usually down to air leaks in the vaccum system, holes or splits in intake rubber bellows or any of the other rubber and plastic vaccum pipes across the engine, unmetered air being picked up at the exhaust sensors don't match what the computer has seen passing through the Maf so it thinks its running lean with the extra air getting in after the Maf. As a consequence it tells the injectors to put more fuel in to richen it up. It will add up to 20% more fuel in effort to fix what it sees but will give up when it reaches maximum and sets a code. Don't discount a bad Maf if you cant find any split hoses, Mafs dont always set codes which can lead you in the wrong direction just going by codes. If the Maf is duff only replace with oem parts Bosch or Seimens, cheap pattern ones are a waste of cash, they seldom work well or long, you end up paying twice. Go ahead and clean the throttle body but do check for air leaks on all the rubber hoses.

 

[mrscalex]

This sounds very like the problem I had with my 3.0. Total throttle failure to clearing a few minutes later. Everything pointed to sticking throttle so replaced it and no problems since although this was very recently so early days still. You may well have an air leak too from the error codes.