Engine swap Different opinions driving me crazy

[Dimitris Flo]

Hi all
so after a lot of searching I have found a donor car with an m44b19 engine and an m44b19 engine both shops have a totally different opinion on what I should swap, part wise the one shop says I should swap ECU and other parts where as the second shop suggests only to swap the engine stating that the only thing that changes from the engine I have m43b19 is the head.
Who should I trust?
Who’s method is preferred in order to avoid future problems or damages?

 

[mrscalex]

The 'only' thing that is different is the head? And they dismiss the possibility that the ECU needs changing too? Where do you think the ECU takes most of its engine signals from and sends most of its outputs back to? The block? It's the head.

The M43 is 8v. The M44 is 16v. They also use completely different ECUs. You want the complete engine/wiring harness/ECU. And I doubt things will stop there. I'm not a 4 cylinder expert but I believe the exhaust is different and a quick look at this will also tell you the radiator and air box assembly is completely different too.

https://zroadster.org/threads/m43-v-m44.5759/

Btw I would run away screaming from your second shop.

 

[mrscalex]

How much googling have you done on this? There seems to be a lot of info on this out there that would help answer your questions, eg

http://bmwowner.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=148879

and from this forum

https://zroadster.org/threads/any-one-swapped-an-m43-to-an-m44-before.26900/

My advice would be don't go any further or leave it in the hands of a workshop until you have a full understanding of what parts you need.

I think you will also need the EWS and lock set. You may even find the version of EWS changes and you will need modifications to the loom (I think the connectors are different but not sure). Or you need to look at an EWS delete in the DME (ECU).

 

[Dimitris Flo]

The 'only' thing that is different is the head? And they dismiss the possibility that the ECU needs changing too? Where do you think the ECU takes most of its engine signals from and sends most of its outputs back to? The block? It's the head.

The M43 is 8v. The M44 is 16v. They also use completely different ECUs. You want the complete engine/wiring harness/ECU. And I doubt things will stop there. I'm not a 4 cylinder expert but I believe the exhaust is different and a quick look at this will also tell you the radiator and air box assembly is completely different too.

https://zroadster.org/threads/m43-v-m44.5759/

Btw I would run away screaming from your second shop.

thought so

 

[Dimitris Flo]

How much googling have you done on this? There seems to be a lot of info on this out there that would help answer your questions, eg

http://bmwowner.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=148879

and from this forum

https://zroadster.org/threads/any-one-swapped-an-m43-to-an-m44-before.26900/

My advice would be don't go any further or leave it in the hands of a workshop until you have a full understanding of what parts you need.

I think you will also need the EWS and lock set. You may even find the version of EWS changes and you will need modifications to the loom (I think the connectors are different but not sure). Or you need to look at an EWS delete in the DME (ECU).

 

[Lee]

Cutting a long story short your going to need the whole engine and loom. Most other parts will cross over and be re used. Like Mrscalex says you will need to look at how the exhaust differs, you might get away with swapping the manifolds over keeping the original system. If your happy to give this a go its quite exciting, you will learn alot along the way. I've just swapped a 2.2 to a 2.8 to a 3.0 over the last 6 months and it been exciting seeing what parts carry over.

 

[IainP]

As others have said, engine and ancillaries, wiring loom and ecu, exhaust manifold and downpipe.
Remember also you should change the clutch release bearing.
As you're fitting LPG I'd change your thermostat and water pump, use the lower temp thermostat, Lpg burns hotter than petrol. If it were me, I'd change the head gasket and bolts. If you don't know it already, Lpg can soften the fire rings in some gaskets, you won't know the full history of the engine, not really worth the chance. Also allows you to skim the head for more compression, LPG can easily handle it, I'd skim it half way to the service limit, recut the valves/seats and replace the seals. Easy to do when the engine is out.

When you have the LPG fitted, have them route the water either through the heater, then the vapouriser, or the other way about, through the vapouriser then to the heater. I haven't really found any difference either way. Only 2 more connections, not the 8 that comes with using T pieces and it's much more efficient.
I'd also use Bosch conversion nozzles rather than drilling the manifold, it's much neater.

 

[Dimitris Flo]

As others have said, engine and ancillaries, wiring loom and ecu, exhaust manifold and downpipe.
Remember also you should change the clutch release bearing.
As you're fitting LPG I'd change your thermostat and water pump, use the lower temp thermostat, Lpg burns hotter than petrol. If it were me, I'd change the head gasket and bolts. If you don't know it already, Lpg can soften the fire rings in some gaskets, you won't know the full history of the engine, not really worth the chance. Also allows you to skim the head for more compression, LPG can easily handle it, I'd skim it half way to the service limit, recut the valves/seats and replace the seals. Easy to do when the engine is out.

When you have the LPG fitted, have them route the water either through the heater, then the vapouriser, or the other way about, through the vapouriser then to the heater. I haven't really found any difference either way. Only 2 more connections, not the 8 that comes with using T pieces and it's much more efficient.
I'd also use Bosch conversion nozzles rather than drilling the manifold, it's much neater.

Wow thanks for the input guys can’t w8!!!